Brief trip report

Rivakkul is a nice scenic lake and the hike is OK by the standards of the Pamirs. However, it’s not as spectacular or as nice a hike as Zaroshkul Lake (renamed Guharrez Lake), nor is it as quick and easy as a visit to Durumkul Lake (if you have a car to get you close). But it’s easier to get to than Zaroshkul and has more varied scenery than the Durumkul area.

The trek after Rivak Lake (Rivakkul) is mostly open terrain until the Shoripdara gorge and is a slow and rocky hike. It’s not for a person who is not comfortable in open terrain with no visible trail. It is mostly the middle one-third than has no visible trails. If you use a map app like OsmAnd then you can see the visibility of the route displayed.

The three passes are safe and easy with just a couple of steep and loose slopes to navigate. The only possible danger is getting caught in bad weather at high altitude. The highest point is about 4650 meters, which can be bad in a storm at this latitude. However, late summer is usually sunny and clear in the Pamirs.

The Rivakdara gorge and Shoripdara gorge have some livestock grazing, mostly cattle and yaks, plus some sheep. There were few shepherds when I was in this area in late July to early August. The areas in between the high passes seem to be home only to bears and ibexes (I saw plenty of tracks and scat).

How long?

I reached the trailhead at Rivvak by midday (July 28) and returned to the highway at Kolkhozobod in the late morning (August 1). I went at a slow pace with a very heavy bag (I had 8 days of heavy local food in my already heavy bag) and did 4 nights in my tent. At my pace it could be a 3 night trek if you start at the trailhead in the morning. If you go light and fast and start early it may be possible to do two nights and three very long and fast days (and if you are already acclimatized).

Accommodation

Plenty of options in Khorugh (Khorog). There are two guesthouses on the map in Rivak at the trailhead, but when I walked by I saw no guesthouse names displayed nor any signs indicating they were open and in business.

Getting to and from the trailhead

From Khorugh (Khorog) you need to get to a mini-bus station in the village of Bidurd. From Khorugh you need to take the white Mercedes Sprinter minibus (3 Somoni) to Bidurd. It leaves from the center from a parking lot next to the central street. It is labelled “Mini Bus stop to Bidurd“ on any offline map that uses Open Street Map data and is up to date. This is a very crowded mini-bus. A group won’t be able to fit their backpacks inside. I was able to, but I was alone. If you are part of a group, just pay for a taxi to Bidurd.

In Bidurd you need to get in an even smaller mini-bus (a minivan, actually) and get to Rivak (pronounced locally as “Riwak“). Few of the minivans displayed a destination; the locals seem to know who their drivers are. So just ask “Riwak?“ and you will be pointed to the correct driver. Likely this will be a driver going to Navobod. My driver, who was going to Navobod, was one of the few to have the destination displayed in his window. It was 10 Somoni to Rivak, but may be a bit extra with a big bag.

Returning to Khorugh is easy. When you get on the Pamir Highway at the village of Kolkhozobod start (paid) hitchhiking. Minivans can only go as far as Bidurd (where the Mercedes Sprinter will be waiting to go into Khough), but some cars are going all the way into Khorugh. 20 Somoni should be your starting offer for a seat in a shared car.

Permits and fees

None required. This area is not inside the national park.